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 Thru hulls

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Everett CM32
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PostSubject: Thru hulls   Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:34 am

Anyone know what brand was used on Clippers? Or how universal the wrenches are?

Need to find a wrench and all the suppliers seem to be brand specific. May just be a disclaimer but I don't want to find out the hard (expensive) way.

Thanks, Ev.

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1972 South Coast Seacraft 26 S/V "Seaweed" on the hook in Key Largo pirat
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Diggs
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:40 am

Go to your local marine store, thru-hull wrenches may come in a couple varieties but if you look at your thru, it should be obvious which tool you need.

Most thru-hulls are this type:



In that case, this will be a universal tool for many sizes:



I have also used a sturdy piece of steel flat stock. Cut or grind one end of the flat stock until it fits into the thru hull fitting but still catches the two slots inside the fitting. A large cresent wrench to grab the flat stock will complete the tool.

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Everett CM32
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:32 am

Flat stock is a good idea however I can't scrounge any here in the yard. Did find some round stock that I will groove and try.

Thanks.

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1977 CM32 Sloop "J.F. Gone" Currently in re-fit, splashing 2013
1972 South Coast Seacraft 26 S/V "Seaweed" on the hook in Key Largo pirat
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Everett CM32
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Sat Feb 02, 2013 3:42 am

Grooved the round stock and got it out.

Now I'm just trying to convince myself to reassemble it. In my mind it is not right to screw an NPT fitting onto an NPS thru hull. I have been to the local supply house hoping for some kind of an adapter. I was told there are none and standard procedure is to just dope em up and screw em together.


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1972 South Coast Seacraft 26 S/V "Seaweed" on the hook in Key Largo pirat
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Mon Feb 04, 2013 1:32 am

The idea of a small boat, with limited resources, and .......sitting in the water 24/7, with a thru hull below the waterline, is unnerving. That is a design flaw, IMHO, to build them that way. Water should be pumped over the side, both ways, somehow.

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Diggs
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:29 am

There are only 3 thru hulls in your average CM (21-26). Sink and cockpit drains. Putting them above the waterline would render them useless. You would need an electric pump to pump the water out above the waterline.

Boatbuilders have been putting thru hull fittings below the waterline for hundreds of years and they only fail after time and corrosion take their tolls, if there is an impact or they get installed improperly.

Everette, your concerns are founded. I wouldn't force the wrong threads onto anything that goes through my hull below the waterline. That is a failure waiting to happen. Just replace the entire thru hull fitting with ANY brand of the correct size.

Which thru hull are you replacing?
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Everett CM32
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:42 am

Diggs wrote:
There are only 3 thru hulls in your average CM (21-26). Sink and cockpit drains. Putting them above the waterline would render them useless. You would need an electric pump to pump the water out above the waterline.

Boatbuilders have been putting thru hull fittings below the waterline for hundreds of years and they only fail after time and corrosion take their tolls, if there is an impact or they get installed improperly.

Everette, your concerns are founded. I wouldn't force the wrong threads onto anything that goes through my hull below the waterline. That is a failure waiting to happen. Just replace the entire thru hull fitting with ANY brand of the correct size.

Which thru hull are you replacing?

Our 32 has a total of 9 plus the paddle wheel socket for the knot meter. 6 are above the water line, cockpit drains, bilge pump, etc. 3 are below, raw water intake for engine, manual pump out for the head, and raw water intake for the head, which is the one I am re-bedding.

While disassembling all the plumbing for the head I inadvertently spun the intake thru hull, barely, but still possibly enough to jeopardize the seal. So basically I am just re-bedding the existing thru hull. It previously had a galvanised 90 on it, close nipple, then ball valve. As we are headed for salt water I have a bronze 90 and nipple to put on.

The new 90 spins on easy enough as the thru hull is straight threaded and the 90 is NPT or tapered. I just don't understand how this is the accepted way of doing it. If I had the time and money I would certainly replace all thru hulls below the waterline w/ proper seacocks.

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1977 CM32 Sloop "J.F. Gone" Currently in re-fit, splashing 2013
1972 South Coast Seacraft 26 S/V "Seaweed" on the hook in Key Largo pirat
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Sun Feb 10, 2013 12:07 am

Everett,

If you can give me the sizes of the pipe and straight fittings I can probably machine an adapter for you out of bronze. The pipe fittings are probably 11 1/2 TPI and the straight is probably 12 TPI. This is why they can screw them together, but the interference fit causes galling of the threads and can jam them together quite tightly.

Terry
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:07 am

Terry, thanks for the offer!! The fittings are 3/4". The thru hull has 12 TPI. The 90 only has about 1/2" of threads and there are aprox. 6 threads. It screws down easily till out of threads.

I would definitely feel better using an adapter as I can't bring myself to assemble it the way it is. Let me know what you need to machine one.

~~~~~ClipperMarine.Org~~~~~Clipper-Sailor.net~~~~~
1977 CM32 Sloop "J.F. Gone" Currently in re-fit, splashing 2013
1972 South Coast Seacraft 26 S/V "Seaweed" on the hook in Key Largo pirat
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PostSubject: Re: Thru hulls   Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:25 pm

Everett,
Going to send you a PM with my cell number. We can go over your options and talk.
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